I have a 1998 Chevy Blazer that has the Passlock feature. Recently I have been having some trouble off and on with it not wanting to start. Sometimes while driving the security light will come on but as soon as turn the car off and adjust the steering column the light will go off. I am ready to have this replaced.My question is should I just have the lock cylinder replaced or also the ignition switch. I have been told by some that it could be the lock cylinder and then it could be the ignition switch. Is there a way to pinpoint just which one it is. My key does appear to be worn out so I was thinking maybe the lock cylinder would just need to be replaced.

Please advise.

Also if I do just replace the lock cylinder will I have to do the relearn procedure again? Any steps I should know about before I pull out the old lock cylinder (if I go that route).

 

Definitely replace the ignition switch first. If you can turn the key in the lock cylinder, then the cylinder should be fine.

 

Well the pass lock only goes through the lock cylinder, so if you replace the ignition switch it will not replace anything that is involved in th pass lock system. Now these ignition switches are common to fail on these vehicles anyway, so I would replace both, and yes you will need to relearn the system again. HTH

 

I just have to wonder if this truely is a passlock problem or if it is just an ignition switch problem. The symptoms sound like an ignition switch.

Be aware that if you replace the lock cylinder, your doors will no longer be the same key as the switch.

Korey, is there a way to key a new lock cylinder to the same as the original or is there a way to rekey the door locks?

 

When you buy the lock cylinder from the dealer they will rekey it for you to the same key as the doors. We could use some more info on this problem, like does it crank, or is the security light flashing while the key is on, stuff like that would help more in the diagnosis also!!

 

Figured I'd bump this thread rather than create a new one, as there are some very specific points you guys covered in this one

Basically I've got the same issue, and everything everyone has said is 'ignition switch'. The reason I'm wanting this replaced is that it has gotten worse..gone from just timing out for the 10 minutes every couple of weeks, to every few drives, and it takes more than a few 10 min time outs to restart. My security light stays lit after I begin driving most trips, and when the ign. times out, it flashes with the key in the on position.

I called the dealer, and they list the 'electrical part' for $119, or the cylinder with passlock sensor for $104. RockAuto has these parts for $55 and $52. So I need to know...should I go with just the wire looking piece called the ignition switch? And will I need a relearn procedure for replacing just the switch wiring? If so, is it the 30 min sequence you can do, or would I need the dealer's diagnostic scan tool to relearn?

 

The GM part number is 26070111 (AC Delco D1423D) for a 2000 and probably other years as well.

Don't know if you've seen this thread in DIY, but I fixed it for the previous character limit problem.

Ignition Switch Replacement - Book Method...

And you might also need this:

98+ SIR Airbag Disabling & Enabling Procedures

 

Thank you very much Kyle!

Do you happen to remember from the last time you did this how tricky it was? My trusty mechanic shop says 1.5 hours of labor for them at $80/hr, as opposed to dealer cost of 2 hours at $108/hr. The steps didn't look too bad...looks like the worst part will be unwrapping the old electrical tape

 

It has been awhile for sure, but from what I remember, it wasn't tricky at all. Just need the proper tools for removing the upper and lower trim panels (small torx bits IIRC).

 

Figured Id bump the thread since the ignition switch replacement fixed my problem. Also did a how to on it for anyone that might find this thread searching:

How To: Ignition Switch Replacement