I just finished a 350 swap into my 95 blazer. I was so excited. I got the starter hooked up and went to start it, and got nothing. No click or anything. I took my voltmeter and checked the voltage at the solenoid wire, no voltage. I had my brother turn the key to crank, and still had no voltage.
I got my neutral safety switch and hooked the wires up and just let it hang and it turned over no problem.
My question is- is there a way to bypass the n.s. switch? Or am I just going to have to keep it hooked up?

 

i may be going down the wrong path but.........i thought you only needed a neutral safety switch if you had a manuel. and usually they ran those threw the ignition so why couldn't you just bridge the 2 wires?

reminder i am not a electricle genius

 

they put them in the automatic trucks to so it cant be started in any gear, only neutral or park.

 

Is the transmission the same one that your '95 came with originally or did you swap it out? If you swapped it out, was it for another 4L60E?

If it is a 4L60E, then the Park/Neutral switch is adjustable. With the vehicle supported off the ground, providing adequate clearance to get to the bolts for the switch. With an assistant in the truck, the transmission in neutral, adjust the switch in small increments until the vehicle starts. Once it starts, tighten the bolts and attempt to start it again.

Now, if you have this entire switch off of the transmission, it may be difficult to get the switch back on properly.

 

He got a 700R4 from a 91? blazer.

 

Well now wouldn't that have been helpful...

 

Sorry, I forgot to mention that.
The trans is actually from an 85 pickup. I got it to start today. I hooked the neutral safety switch up and just let it hang. I turned the dial to convince it that it was in park and it started right up.
Now the problem is that I just have the switch hanging under the truck.
Someone on v8s10.org posted that Stealth Conversions make an adapter bracket to mount the switch to a 700r4. But that means that I have to take the trans back out and apart to put a different gear selector shaft in it.
I'm not sure what to do about it, but I kindof put that on a backburner since I got my truck to start (yeah!!)

 

OK
Some things aren;t adding up for me here.

You have a '95 truck and dropped in a '85 700R4. That means your cable shifter wont match up the the shift linkage your '85 came with. Which you already discovered.
How do you plan to make the puter understand that it doesn't need to read the tranny?
How are you expecting the puter to tell the tranny to lock up?
Why do you have to drop the tranny to replace the shaft?
You have to drop the tranny pan, but shouldn't have to drop the whole tranny.
And Finally, how do you expect the 700R4 to shift without a TV Cable?


Life would have been so much easier if you would have found a 4L60e tranny in the first place. They are everywhere. GM put them in all rear wheel drive 1/2 ton and lighter vehicles since '93. They are in fullsize pick-ups/SUV's to the Corevette. Donors are everywhere.

 

Tim, he's got a carb'd v8 now from what I gathered from some other posts. So I'm not sure how much of the computer he'll be using.

 

I have a '69 350 with an edelbrock carb. I am hooking the detent cable to the carb where it is supposed to. My regular throttle cable will also hook to the carb. The shift linkage matched up fine with a little shimming.
I couldn't run a 4l60e without getting a standalone computer system, which costs $700+. I looked into that option.
You are right on not having to drop the trans to swap out shafts. I wasn't thinking when I posted that.